A deposit is typically one to two months' rent. Losing part of it is common, and most of that loss is avoidable.
The reason it is avoidable is that deposit deductions follow predictable patterns. Agents check the same things in the same order, and the same five or six issues account for most of the money withheld.
This guide covers what they check, what counts as fair wear and tear (and therefore cannot be charged), and the process that gets the deposit back.
What gets checked, in order
Agents and landlords typically walk the property in this sequence, comparing against the inventory taken at move-in.
| Check | What they look for | Typical deduction |
|---|---|---|
| Walls | Holes, marks, paint damage, adhesive residue | $40–250 |
| Doors and frames | Chips, hinge damage, marks from over-door hooks | $30–120 |
| Flooring | Stains, burns, scratches beyond wear | $50–400 |
| Kitchen | Oven interior, extractor filter, cupboard interiors, limescale | $40–200 |
| Bathroom | Grout mould, limescale, sealant condition | $50–200 |
| Windows | Broken seals, frames, sills | $30–150 |
| Appliances | Filters, seals, function | $30–150 |
| Garden / outdoor | Overgrowth, damage | $30–200 |
| Cleanliness | General standard, oven, fridge, carpets | $50–300 |
Notice the pattern: the two biggest categories are walls and flooring, and both are where storage decisions (adhesive hooks, heavy furniture) cause damage.

Fair wear and tear — what cannot be charged
This is the part most tenants do not know. Landlords cannot deduct for fair wear and tear: the natural deterioration of a property through normal use over time.
Fair wear and tear includes:
- Faded paint or wallpaper in sunlit areas
- Small marks on walls from normal use
- Worn carpet in walkways
- Minor scuffs on skirting boards
- Slightly worn sealant around baths and sinks
- Small scratches on worktops from normal cooking
- Loose door handles that have simply worked loose
- Faded curtains or blinds
It does not include:
- Holes in walls, however small
- Paint damage from adhesive
- Burns, stains or tears in carpets
- Chipped or cracked tiles
- Mould caused by not ventilating
- Missing items from the inventory
- Damage from pets, if pets were not agreed
- Anything that requires replacement rather than repair
The key distinction: wear is deterioration through use; damage is an event. A worn carpet is wear; a carpet stain is damage.
The five-step process
Step 1: photograph everything on day one
This is the single most valuable thing you can do, and it must happen before you move furniture in.
Photograph:
- Every wall, in sections, at a consistent angle
- Every floor, including under where furniture will go
- Every appliance, including inside the oven and fridge
- Every window and sill
- Any existing damage, close up
- Meter readings
Use a timestamp. Phone photos carry metadata; email them to yourself so there is an external timestamp.
Why it matters: deposit disputes are resolved on evidence. A dated photograph of a pre-existing mark is conclusive. Without it, the mark is assumed to be yours.
Step 2: use the right hanging methods
If you install anything, choose methods that leave no trace:
| Method | Damage | Deposit risk |
|---|---|---|
| Tension rod | Scuffs only | Low |
| Over-door hooks | Frame wear | Low |
| Adhesive hooks (light, smooth wall) | Paint may lift | Medium |
| Adhesive strips (heavy) | Top paint layer | Medium |
| Nails | Small holes | Medium |
| Anchors / screws | 6–10 mm holes | High |
The removal technique that saves deposits: adhesive strips must be pulled down along the wall, slowly, stretching the adhesive. Pulling outward takes the paint with it. This single detail is the most common cause of deposit loss from storage.
Step 3: repair as you go, not at the end
Small damage is cheaper to fix immediately than at the end of a tenancy, when it has been added to an inventory list.
| Issue | Fix | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Small nail hole | Lightweight filler, sand, touch-up paint | $5 |
| Chipped paint | Touch-up paint (get the colour on day one) | $8 |
| Scuffed skirting | Magic eraser or a coat of the same paint | $5 |
| Limescale | Citric acid or vinegar, soak and wipe | $3 |
| Mould on grout | Bleach gel, leave overnight, scrub | $6 |
The most useful single question to ask on day one: "which paint colour is this?" Most landlords know, or have a tin. Matching paint makes every wall repair invisible.
Step 4: the week-before clean
Do this a week before the inspection, not the day before, so you can see what actually needs attention.
The high-value items (the ones agents check most):
| Area | What to do |
|---|---|
| Oven | Full clean including racks, door glass, and the gap between glass panes |
| Extractor filter | Degrease or replace |
| Fridge | Empty, defrost if needed, clean seals |
| Shower grout | Treat with bleach gel, scrub |
| Limescale on taps | Citric acid soak |
| Carpets | Spot clean, or professional clean if the tenancy requires it |
| Windows | Inside and out if accessible |
| Under furniture | Vacuum, especially under the bed |
Check your tenancy agreement for a professional cleaning clause. Some require it; many do not, and paying for one unnecessarily is a common waste.
Step 5: the walkthrough, with the inventory in hand
On the day, walk the property yourself first, with the original inventory, and note every discrepancy. Then walk it with the agent.
Two things to do during the walkthrough:
- Photograph everything again, in the same sequence as day one
- Write down anything the agent mentions, and get it acknowledged in writing before you hand over keys
Never accept a verbal "we'll sort it out". Deductions happen after you have left, when you have no access to dispute evidence.
When a deduction is unfair
You can dispute it. The process varies by country, but broadly:
- Ask for the deduction in writing, with an itemised breakdown and receipts
- Compare it against the inventory and your photographs
- Point out anything that is fair wear and tear
- If unresolved, use the deposit protection scheme (in the UK, deposits must be held in one) or the relevant small claims process
The strongest evidence is always: dated photographs from move-in day, and the original inventory.
The storage-specific advice
Since most storage decisions in a rental carry deposit risk, here is the summary by method:
| Method | Use it in a rental? |
|---|---|
| Tension rods | Yes, widely |
| Over-door hooks | Yes, with felt tape on the bracket |
| Freestanding shelving | Yes — best option |
| Adhesive hooks | Only for under 2 kg, smooth wall, removed correctly |
| Wall-mounted shelves | Only with written permission |
| Anchors and screws | Avoid; the repair cost exceeds the benefit |
The general principle: in a rental, storage that stands on the floor is almost always safer than storage that attaches to the wall. It holds more, damages less, and moves with you.

The checklist
BEFORE MOVING IN
[ ] Photograph every wall, floor, appliance (dated)
[ ] Photograph any existing damage
[ ] Ask for the paint colour
[ ] Note meter readings
[ ] Check the inventory for accuracy
DURING THE TENANCY
[ ] Use tension rods and freestanding storage
[ ] Repair small damage as it happens
[ ] Keep the original inventory somewhere findable
WEEK BEFORE LEAVING
[ ] Deep clean oven, extractor, fridge, bathroom
[ ] Fill and touch up any holes
[ ] Check the tenancy for a cleaning clause
[ ] Photograph everything again
ON THE DAY
[ ] Walk through with the inventory
[ ] Note every discrepancy in writing
[ ] Photograph everything in the same sequence
[ ] Do not accept verbal assurances
The deposit is not the landlord's money — it is yours, held temporarily. The evidence you collect on day one is what determines whether you get it back.